Friday, September 28, 2012

Go West Not So Young Man

So there I was...motoring into the dock with my dingy in Mattituck Harbor on the north shore of Long Island.  Getting into their dingy to go back out to their sailboat was a couple a few years older than me and we struck up a conversation about the old 1953 3hp Johnson outboard engine that I used on my dingy.  As the conversation progressed we got to talking about how the woman, who was in great shape, had just been kiteboarding all afternoon on the bay.  Kiteboarding is where you hold on to a large kite to propel you across the the top of the water, often at great speeds, on what looks like a small surfboard.  It is an intense sport and I was impressed that this "not so young" woman was proficient in it.  The conversation eventually turned to living a minimalist lifestyle on our boats. Being an advocate of the minimalist philosophy I was explaining how my wife and I had sought to downsize making our life simpler, cheaper and more fullfiling.  Always wanting more is endless and requires all your time maintaining more and working too much to afford it all.  Wanting less creates a feeling of accomplishment as you give things up, while financially and emotionally simplifying your life giving you more time to invest in the things that really matter.  I read once a quote that said, "The quickest way to make a man rich is to decrease his wants".  The couple proceeded to tell me of their home in the woods on 7 acres of land with no electricity and a pipe from a nearby stream leading into the house for water.  For many years they had lived and loved this simple life allowing them to work and live in their very modest home in the winter and travel the east coast in the summer living on their boat.  Her job for the day was to go kiteboarding.  His job was to carry it to the beach and back.  I decided they won the minimalist challenge.
Yesterday I raised anchor and did an 8 hour cruise going west toward New York City going by the harbors of Port Jefferson and Oyster Bay.  As I passed Oyster Bay the water in Long Island Sound became deep red, almost like blood.  Thoughts of God telling Moses to turn the water in the Nile River to blood came to mind.  In this case it is what's called Red Tide, an algal bloom that has been a problem in New England waters.  It's very disconcerting.  I motored into Manhasset Harbor and got one of their free moorings for a couple nights.  From here I will make my run through Hell's Gate, up the Harlem River and into the Hudson River.  Going west as simply as I can.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Mystic Storm

So there I was... sitting in the cockpit in a protected harbor just south of the train bridge in the Mystic River watching the sunset as I like to do most days.  I had picked this spot as I heard strong winds were heading my way and indeed they were already building.  The forcast had called for 50 mph gusts and heavy rains but I had been dug in for two days and felt good as the storm approached.  I felt good until I realized I was slowly moving because the anchor was dragging through the silty soft bottom of the river.  I had problems with this area before but had since increased the size of my anchor thinking I had it figured out.  The winds had now increased to about 30 mph and it was getting dark fast.  Reanchoring a vessel single-handed and in extreme conditions is not easy but I was surprised how I seemed to take it in stride.  I think living out here day in and day out I've sort of grown accustomed to the movements, sounds and situations that used to bother me before.  As the storm howled outside through the night I got up a few times to check on things but otherwise slept well.  I like this life...even the tough parts.  I'm sure there's a lesson to be learned there.
Heading for the north shore of Long Island tomorrow but a meal at the pub in Captain Daniel Packer Inn in Mystic is a must.  Give it a try if you're ever here.  Goodbye Connecticut.

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Newport Is Crazy Busy

So there I was...catching a little breakfast at the Seamen's Church Institute, an icon in Newport, originally started in 1919 to serve those who worked and traveled the sea.  It is a place where cruisers, like myself, can get an inexpensive breakfast, take a hot shower, wash your clothes and spend some quality time in its library and chapel.  I was sitting across from this couple and eventually we were telling our tales to each other.  Seems Scott and Mary Flanders have lived on their 46' Nordhavn trawler since 2006, one of the most seaworthy trawlers built and had taken her around the world and then some.  They write articles for a prominent boating magazine called Passagemaker and are well known in the cruising community.  A wealth of information and I got to pick their brain and enjoy their company for an hour.  What an amazing couple, what an amazing life.
Dove on a friends boat yesterday to clean the growth, mussels, sea squirts and barnicles off of his running gear (that's the shaft and propeller for my non-nautical friends) .  Took awhile as it had gotten to garden proportions.  When I got out of the water these little critters that look like miniature walking sticks with, I think, six legs and pinchers were all over me and holding on for dear life.  I had obviously destroyed their habitat and now they wanted to come home with me.  A long shower and much scrubbing  convinced them otherwise.
An early morning jaunt on Newport's historic Cliff Walk was a must.  This 3.5 mile trail has the crashing sea, some 70 ft below, on one side of you and the sprawling estates of several mansions on the other.  One of my favorite is aptly named The Breakers and was built by the Vanderbilts as a summer home in 1895.  This is a must see if you find yourself here some day.
The Newport Boat Show, a great in water show, started today with million dollar boats by the dozens that you can board and explore.  Great fun.  Always busy in this harbor.  Starting to feel the need for a quieter place.  I'm pulling anchor in a couple days.  See you at the next stop.

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Was That What Was Nibbling My Toes?

So there I was...sitting in the cockpit of Eventide watching the guy on the boat anchored right behind me in Block Island pulling in a fish that was giving him quite a fight.  As he brought the 3 foot Sand Shark to the surface the water exploded as the shark was none too happy.  What was this shark doing in Great Salt Pond?  Locals said that was unusual.  The day before I had been swimming around the boat and felt a movement against my leg thinking it was probably seaweed.  Still think it probably was seaweed but I would have loved to see the shark swimming that close up.
The last night on the island I walked the beach watching several groups digging holes in the sand and making large fires in them to have clam bakes, grill burgers and fish, etc.  They would all be standing around the fires with their wine and beer thoroughly enjoying each others company and this extrordinary atmosphere.  There are not many beaches you can do this on with the blessing of local government.
The next day I was off to Newport with beam seas from 4-6 ft that tossed me all over the place for three hours.  Wilson was rolling all over the cabin, he looked pretty shook up.  Anchored, then drinks and catching up with my old friend, Garret, who has lived on his boat for many years in Newport and has promised to help me with my salt water fishing so I can eat.  Lots of activity here.  I'll fill you in next time.